Popular in the Alps and Dolomites, via ferratas are a type of climbing route that are growing in popularity around the world, making it possible for even beginner climbers to ascend some of the most impressive peaks on the planet. Sound like your kind of adventure? In this article, we’ll take you on a journey into the exciting world of via ferrata, exploring what it is, the equipment you’ll need, via ferrata difficulty grades, and where to go for some of the best via ferrata routes.
What is a Via Ferrata?
Translated from Italian as “iron way”, a Via Ferrata is a protected climbing route which allows climbers to scale steep mountain faces and inaccessible areas of a mountain using steel cables and other meta fixtures for help and protection.
In a way, via ferrata routes bridge the gap between scrambling and traditional rock climbing. Using a specialised via ferrata lanyard set, climbers secure themselves to the steel cables, ladders and other metal fixtures along the routes for protection, allowing them to ascend mountains not usually accessible through hiking or scrambling. But the best thing about via ferratas is that they are suitable for both beginners and experienced climbers.
Via ferrata routes are a very popular sight through the mountains in central Europe, particularly in the mountains along the Austrian-Italian border in the Dolomites.
Are Via Ferratas Safe?
It depends on your definition of safe. Via ferrata is still a type of climbing and has its risks, though it’s much safer than traditional rock climbing thanks to the fixed steel cables pinned into the rock.
In fact, a study on via ferrata related emergencies in Austria (a very popular location for via ferrata climbing) between 2008 and 2018 concluded that at just 6.2 deaths per year, the risk of dying from via ferrata is low and is actually significantly lower than the risk from rock climbing and hiking in the Austrian Alps.
If you were to fall while on a via ferrata, the carabiners on your via ferrata set would simply slide down to the nearest pin in the rock before your harness catches you. As you can imagine, if you were to fall near the top of a section or while trying to clip into the next, you might fall quite a way. That’s why it’s crucial to always clip in to the highest section you can, and to always do it with one carabiner at a time.
That being said, we wouldn’t recommend being on a via ferrata route during a thunderstorm. Being attached to a big steel cable near the top of the mountain plus lighting… do the math!
Essential Equipment for Via Ferrata
Before you embark on your first via ferrata journey, you’ll need tog et your hands on three pieces of essential via ferrata equipment:
Harness
The first thing you’ll need is a rock climbing harness. Nothing fancy, just a regular sit harness will do the job. Just keep in mind that you’ll probably be wearing it for a few hours, so it should be comfortable and fit you well, though they can always be adjusted to be looser or tighter as needed.
Via Ferrata Lanyard
Sometimes called a “via ferrata set”, a via ferrata lanyard is the only piece of via ferrata exclusive equipment you’ll need and allows you to clip onto the steel cables for protection. It’s a fairly simple piece of climbing equipment, consisting of two carabiners which are attached to your harness with a stretchy sling and a shock absorber which helps break your fall.
Helmet
And, of course, you’ll need a rock climbing helmet to cover your head. Accidentally bashing your head against the rock is more common that you’d expect and it will also help to protect your head in the event that you fall or from rocks falling from above.
Other Equipment
As well as those three essentials, there are a few other things you should take with you to make life a little easier on the mountain:
- Climbing Gloves: a pair of hiking or climbing gloves will come in handy as the steel cables can be a little rough in parts and will be tough on your hands if you’re clinging onto them.
- Hiking Shoes or Boots: you don’t need specific climbing shoes, but a pair of sturdy hiking shoes or boots with a good grip and stiff sole will help.
- Appropriate Clothing: a pair of comfortable trousers or leggings and long-sleeve tops will help to avoid scrapes if you’re dragging yourself over ledges and a waterproof jacket to keep you warm and dry as the weather in the mountains can be a little unpredictable and via ferrata routes are usually quite exposed.
- Backpack: a backpack to keep all your water, snacks and other goodies in. Plus, you’ll probably find that the hike to and from the via ferrata route is a lot more comfortable if you pack your via ferrata gear away.
Via Ferrata Difficulty Levels
Via ferrata routes range in difficulty, from easy routes that beginners with no experience can tackle to extremely difficult routes that only experienced climbers should attempt. Here a brief look at the different via ferrata difficulty levels:
- A (Easy): suitable for beginners and anyone new to via ferrata. They often involve less challenging terrain, shorter climbing sections, and straightforward cable and ladder crossings. An A-grade via ferrata is an excellent choice for someone trying via ferrata for the first time.
- B (Moderate): Moderate routes are ideal for people with a bit of climbing experience. They’ll probable include longer, more exposed sections and require a bit more technical skill. Climbers attempting B-grade routes should be comfortable with heights and basic climbing techniques.
- C (Difficult): Difficult routes are intended for experienced via ferrata climbers. They often involve more challenging vertical ascents, longer and more exposed sections, and potentially difficult overhangs or traverses. Climbers tackling C-grade routes should have a good understanding of via ferrata techniques and be in good physical condition.
- D (Very Difficult): These routes are for highly experienced climbers. They feature extremely exposed sections, demanding overhangs, and challenging traverses. Climbers attempting D-grade routes should have advanced technical skills, a high level of fitness, and a calm head for heights.
- E (Extremely Difficult): E-grade routes are the most challenging via ferratas and are suitable only for expert climbers. They may involve overhanging sections, strenuous traverses, and demanding technical maneuvres. Climbers tackling E-grade routes should be very seasoned via ferrata climbers with lots climbing experience.
You should also know that the difficulty of a via ferrata route can also vary even within the same grade based on the weather conditions, how well the route is maintained and on your personal skills and experience.
Where to go for Via Ferratas
Via ferrata routes can be found all over the world, but there’s no doubt that the largest concentration of via ferrata routes is in central Europe. The Italian Dolomites and the Alps spread across France, Austria and Switzerland are home to some of the most impressive via ferrata routes you’ll ever experience, though sure to check out our list of the best via ferratas to get even more inspiration for your next climbing trip!
Via Ferrata - FAQs
One of the best things about via ferratas is that they are suitable for both experienced climbers and complete beginners, so you can get your first taste of via ferratas with not prior climbing experience needed! That being said, if you aren’t too sure about tackling a via ferrata on route on your own, we’d recommend starting with a guided adventure.
Absolutely. As long as you have the correct via ferrata equipment, you can get started with some of the easier, entry-level via ferrata routes and work your way up to some fo the more challenging ones!
Yes, you sure can! All you need is a harness, via ferrata lanyard and helmet and away you go. That being said, be sure to start with some of the easier via ferrata routes before working your way up to some of the more difficult ones.
If you fall while clipped into a via ferrata route, you’ll fall as far as the next fixed pin int the rock before your harness and lanyard set break your fall. So the distance you fall depends on how far you’ve climbed from the last pin.
No, you don’t need climbing shoes for via ferratas. They might be helpful on extremely difficult via ferrata routes. but they won’t be needed on most. A pair of sturdy hiking shoes or boots will do the job!
Yes, there are via ferrata routes in the United Kingdom, although they aren’t as common as in some other mountainous regions. One of the most popular via ferrata routes in the UK is the “Honister Via Ferrata” located in the Lake District National Park in England.
